blog

Visiting Tela, Honduras

Thu, 17 May 2012 11:00:00 +1200

Want to go somewhere warm, cheap, with great beaches and minimal tourists? Tela is your place! Tela is a medium-sized city located on the Caribbean coast of Honduras. It is easily accessible by bus from either La Ceiba (LCE) or San Pedro Sula (SAP). If you want to get there a bit faster and have a bit more money to spend, you can take a taxi from either international airport, SAP being a bit more pricey at around 100 USD.

Sea one side, mountains the other

If you choose the more economical route, I highly recommend going with Hedman Alas. Their buses are safe, direct (meaning they won’t be stopping every other block to pick up more people), comfortable, air-conditioned, and have a nice bathroom on board. You’ll pay a little more money, but having done the chicken bus and 2nd class bus routes through this area myself . . . it’s worth paying a little extra for the “fancy bus.” If you do end up taking the cheaper bus, make sure to let the bus driver know you’re getting off in Tela, otherwise you’ll end up in La Ceiba. The bus will drop you off at a gas station on the highway, and you’ll need to flag down a taxi to take you into town.

In town you won’t find chain restaurants. Almost every restaurant serves fairly typical Honduran fare, but its proximity to the ocean also means many places offer fresh, as in plucked out of the water that day, seafood. Before ordering lobster please make sure that you aren’t doing so between March 1 and June 1 (although in some years it is extended through the whole month of June) when lobster season is officially closed in Honduras. There are many problems with overfishing, so this closed season is vital.

Hotel Maya Vista

There are a variety of lodging options in Tela ranging from “cheaper than backpacker basic” to “Hello, Mr. Trump, so nice to see you again.” My personal favorite is the Maya Vista. Even if you choose not to stay here, do have a meal at the restaurant. The food is quite excellent and extremely reasonably priced for its quality. The lodging is very comfortable and AC is included in your nightly rate, which you’ll most likely need as Tela can get quite warm. The hotel sports wonderful views, and the hammock area is a wonderful place for an afternoon or evening siesta.

Nearby are popular national parks, scuba diving, and Garifuna villages to explore. There are also outfits that will take you horseback riding along the beach, and rumor has it that the deep sea fishing is outstanding.

The dining area of the Maya Vista Hotel & Restaurant

Even if Tela isn’t your final destination, it’s worth planning 2-3 extra days to visit this coastal town that is so often overlooked by most tourists.

Best Family Activity in Medellin, Colombia

Wed, 09 May 2012 14:30:00 +1200

So you’ve done it. You’ve brought the family to the big city of Medellin. Now what on earth do you do with the kids? Well, we’ll look at that in another post, but for now let’s chat about the absolute best option for both the kids and their parents: Parque Explora.

Animated dinos fill the park

Parque Explora is an interactive museum for the whole family really. It’s a great place for the children to run and play and wear themselves out for the metro ride home. Not only does it boast 3 floors of incredible interactive activities, but there is an outdoor area to explore as well, complete with moving dinosaurs. And don’t be bashful parents, you’ll see plenty of adults entertaining themselves with the same activities while sporting huge grins.

Indoors the kids will have the ability to learn more about the inner workings of their bodies and to get physical. They’ll also get to learn about, and play with, various types of technology including digitally controlling their home environment, doing stop action videos of both humans and inanimate objects, solar power, and get to play virtual games that require almost whole body movements.There is also a special exhibit area for children 6 years and younger.

Sleepy turtles

Not wanting to leave things just at the hands-on, plastic and metal level, Parque Explora also has a vivarium with several South American varieties of reptiles and a not-too-shabby aquarium, including some exhibits that allow you to see the underwater world from several different angles.

This park/museum is conveniently located at the Universidad metro station (which costs about 90 cents per person to ride). In fact a ramp from the metro station takes you directly to Parque Explora. This attraction is also conveniently located next to the amusement park Parque Norte, the botanical gardens, and the planetarium. Admission to the “park” is 17,000 COP (about $9) and includes all the areas of the park including the TV station and 3D lab. Children who are shorter than 1.06 meters (about 3-1/2 feet) get in for free. Even the child or adult with the strongest ADD will need about 3 hours to get through all the attractions available, so plan ahead. Snacks, meals, and beverages are available for purchase. The site is completely handicapped accessible.

Amazing art incorporating mirrors

Over the years I’ve had the chance to spend a lot of time in children and kid-oriented museums, and Parque Explora has blown them all away by comparison. This is definitely one of the must-dos when visiting the City of Eternal Spring.

Feel the Magic at Reynishverfi Beach, Iceland

Wed, 02 May 2012 11:00:00 +1200

Huge, frothing Atlantic waves were crashing angrily on the black sand. The kind of roiling waves that would sneak up on you and wash you away in a second if you weren’t paying attention.

And it would be easy to get distracted here.

Between the looming sea cliffs, the ballast sea stacks off shore, the whipping wind, and those angry waves, there was a lot to take in.

To the left, oddly-formed cliffs – like giant columns broken off into steps – opened up into rough sea caves that would probably be wet come high tide. Overhead, gulls called in their harsh voices – in a few months, they would be replaced by puffins come to raise their young. And to the right sat two odd spires of stone – the Reynisdrangar – with the angry Atlantic Ocean battering their sides.

The 'Night Trolls'

Ask a scientist, and these sea stacks were formed by simple erosion, with the ocean slowly eating away at softer rock to reveal the hard, twisted volcanic stone beneath.

But ask an Icelander, and you might get a different story. According to my tour guide, the rocks in the water weren’t rocks at all. Or, at least, they hadn’t always been rocks. Instead, they used to be trolls. Night trolls, to be exact. You see, whether you believe it or not, many Icelanders still harbor the ancient belief in mythical, magical creatures like elves and fairies and trolls.

The night trolls traditionally roamed the land and coast (unsurprisingly) by night, trying to snare an unsuspecting ship or perhaps some livestock in the darkness. But, if they didn’t get back to their caves before sunrise, they would be turned to stone.

Yet more 'trolls'

This is how some Icelanders explain the huge boulders in fields or the curiously-shaped sea stacks off shore all over the country – frozen trolls who got caught in the sun.

Whether you believe in the tales or not, as I stood on Reynishverfi Beach on that blustery afternoon, with the waves crashing and the gulls crying and the scene so starkly beautiful in front of me, it seemed perfectly possible that trolls and elves and all other manner of fairy-tale creatures could be lurking nearby.

This certainly isn’t a beach for sunbathing. It isn’t really even a beach for relaxation.

But there’s no arguing that there’s nevertheless something quite magical about Reynishverfi Beach.

Embracing the Kitsch in Amarillo

Tue, 24 Apr 2012 10:00:00 +1200

When I told people my sister and I were planning to visit Amarillo, Texas on our cross-country American road trip, I got a lot of blank stares and raised eyebrows.

“Why Amarillo?” they all asked. Why weren’t we going somewhere bigger and better? After all, it’s all about bigger and better in Texas.

The answer, though, was simple: Amarillo, located along old Route 66, is full of kitschy attractions. And kitschy attractions were exactly what we wanted to see.

The Cadillac Ranch

The main reason for us adding Amarillo into our itinerary is located in an empty field off the side of I-40 about 10 miles west of Amarillo.

It’s called the Cadillac Ranch.

This oddball attraction has been around since 1974, when a local Texas millionaire decided that Amarillo needed a different kind of funky art installation. A handful of old Cadillac cars were then buried, nose-down, in an unused field. And, somehow, this random attraction has become a Route 66 favorite.

Today, the Cadillac Ranch is the most-visited roadside attraction in America. And it’s really not difficult to understand why – people from all over the world come armed with cans of spraypaint to (legally) leave their mark on these old rusted-out cars. The result is a super fun, super colorful attraction that’s great for people of all ages.

And the best part? It won’t cost you any more than a can of spray paint.

The Big Texan

Another favorite Route 66 attraction in Amarillo is actually much more than just an attraction – it’s the Big Texan.

This roadside diner/motel/fun house simply cannot be missed — literally, there are so many huge signs for it that you’d have to be blind to not notice it from the highway.

The Big Texan itself resides in a garishly yellow building with a giant longhorn cow and cowboy boot on display outside. There’s also a colorful motel (complete with a pool shaped like the state of Texas), and a place to board horses for the night right next door.

The restaurant itself is best known for its 72-ounce steak challenge. During this challenge, brave souls are put up on a stage and given an hour to eat a 72-ounce steak, a salad, and a bunch of sides. A 72-OUNCE-STEAK! Do you realize how big that is?!? And people actually take this challenge – 2 of them were attempting it while my sister and I were there.

The Cadillac Ranch

But don’t worry – you can get normal portions, here, too. The food is actually pretty good (and affordable), and the atmosphere is worth experiencing. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get serenaded by a wandering cowboy!

After eating, be sure to explore the rest of the Big Texan, including the gift shop, shooting gallery, giant maze, and even fudge shop. Yes, this place is kitsch-central, but I think we could all use a little kitsch in our lives every now and then.

If you agree, be sure to visit Amarillo on your next trip through Texas!

Laid Back Utila

Mon, 16 Apr 2012 10:30:00 +1200

Bottle art at the Art Garden of the Jade Seahorse

Looking for a small Caribbean island that hasn’t succumbed to the effects of tourism? Think it doesn’t exist anymore or is just too hard to get to? Think again!

Utila is part of the Bay Islands on the Caribbean coast of Honduras. Its larger neighbor Roatan attracts all the cruise ships and tourists who don’t want to give up too many of their creature comforts leaving Utila still relatively unspoiled.

Like many Caribbean islands, the main language on the island is a form of Caribbean English, even though the island is part of Spanish-speaking Honduras, which makes Utila extremely easy to visit for people who haven’t added Spanish to their language repertoire.

Cluster of social feather duster worms

Getting there is fairly simple as well. An international airport serves both Roatan (RTB) and La Ceiba (LCE), although cheaper flights are more often found going through San Pedro Sula (SAP). From any of those airports you can fly to Utila’s (UTI) airport. CM Airlines and SOSA are the most popular flight choices, although the latter tends to have less reliability of their schedule. Coming from Roatan or La Ceiba, you have a few different marine options: Capt. Vern’s catamaran or the Galaxy Wave (from Roatan). Two ferries leave the mainland from La Ceiba: The Utila Princess and the Utila Island Express (less expensive, more enjoyable ride, less seasickness, but also less reliable on their schedule). Ferries will generally cost around $20 USD each way. You can buy a round trip ticket (no return date required as long as it’s within 1 year), but many people find it easier to get their return ticket when they’re ready to leave as it provides you more flexibility. If you are prone to seasickness, make sure to ask for a free Dramamine at the ferry ticket window. Also the morning ferry (9:30 AM from La Ceiba) tends to be a less bumpy ride.

Spotted eagle rays

The island offers everything from super basic backpacker lodging to high-end resort accommodations. If you’re planning on a longer stay you can easily find a furnished apartment or small house to rent. Monthly you can expect to spend anywhere between $200 and $600, or more if you’re planning on using any of the many luxurious vacation homes available through services like VRBO.com.

Utila is the type of place where people usually come expecting to stay a few days and end up being there a few weeks instead. One of the biggest jokes heard on the island is “I’m leaving tomorrow,” so don’t be surprised if you hear laughter when you announce this.

Sunset in the Utila harbor

Don’t expect zip lines or huge swaths of white, sandy beaches. But you also won’t get inflated prices. Food, accommodation, and the like are extremely affordable. If you’re into diving, or want to take a course, Utila offers some of the cheapest diving in the world, and it’s great diving as well. The reefs are in pretty good health, particularly on the north side of the island. March and April are the traditional whale shark months, but they have a mind of their own and often don’t follow the human calendar.

Want to see the Caribbean the way it used to be? Utila is your place.

Cluster of social feather duster worms

5 Must-See Sights in Kenya

Thu, 05 Apr 2012 11:00:00 +1200

From the warm humid climate of the Indian Ocean coastline to the snow-capped peaks of Mt Kenya to the desert-like regions in the north-east, Kenya's landscape is truly diverse.

Lucky enough to be traveling to Kenya? Here are five natural sights that are a must see!

Lake Nakuru National Game Park

Lake Nakuru

Near the town of Nakuru is one of the largest game parks in all of Kenya. Lake Nakuru National Park gives you the opportunity to go into the wild and observe, first-hand, such beautiful creatures and sights! The park's landscape is made up of mountains and rocky cliffs, marshland, dense forests, and miles of grassland. From elephants to giraffes, zebras and rhinoceros, this adventure is a chance of a lifetime! Drive through the park on your own with a self-guided map or join a tour guide and go into the wild.

The Equator

Sign at the Equator

Who wouldn’t want to sit at zero degrees latitude? Besides Kenya, there are only a few other places around the world where you can stand on the equator. It is about an hour’s drive from Nakuru to a town named Nanyuki before you approach road signs marking the Earth’s equator. The hand-made signs and crowds of locals watching the tourists in amazement make this sight worth the trip. Pull over to the side of the road and snap some pictures of you standing near the sign or, heck, lay down a blanket in the grass and have a picnic on the equator like we did!

Mount Kenya

While I didn’t have any intent on climbing the second highest mountain in Africa, just seeing Mount Kenya from a distance was amazing. The highest peaks of the mountain reach over 17,00 feet with small glaciers and forest-covered slopes. Mount Kenya is said to be sacred to the people of Kenya and many build their homes so their doors would face the mountain. If you plan on climbing it, good luck!

Menengai Crater

Lake Nakuru

Once an active volcano, Menengai Crater is the result of millions of years of volcanic activity. It is located a short drive from the down town area of Nakuru in Rift Valley. Be careful on the ride up, as the road that leads to the crater is unpaved, bumpy and pot hole ridden! But once you’re there, the sight is breathtaking. Filled with geysers and hot springs, this hiking experience is unlike anything I had ever seen before (but true hiking I have never been). The crater’s circumference goes beyond what the human eye can see. The views of Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria make this a trip worth taking. But beware of the so-called “evil spirits” that linger at the bottom of Menengai Crater. It is said these “evil spirits” take people and animals into the “netherworld.” So carry your voodoo dolls to rid the evil!

Loburu Geysers

Geyser

Geysers and hot springs are just a short drive from Nakuru in Lake Bogoria. These natural hot springs are made from the once active volcanic rock and heat still penetrating from the ground. The water is anywhere from 39 to 98.5 degree Celsius. As the heat from the springs rise into the air, clouds of steam can be seen from miles away. Many of the geysers and hot springs are located close to the lake and surround the water. If you stick around them for long enough you might just see one of them explode!

Basilica del Voto Nacional, Ecuador

Mon, 02 Apr 2012 16:30:00 +1200

The Basilica del Voto Nacional is a well-known site in Quito, Ecuador. What is not as well known is that it is the largest neo-Gothic basilica in the Americas.

One of many stained glass windows

It began as an idea held by congressman/Catholic Priest in 1883 to build a monument that would serve as a perpetual reminder of Ecuador’s consecration to the Sacred Heart. The planning process required about 6 years, and construction began in 1892. However, while the impressive building appears quite intact, it remains unfinished. Local legend holds that when the basilica is completed, it will be the end of the world.

While many of the churches and cathedrals in Latin America either charge a healthy sum of money to enter, and then ban photography or videography, the basilica has remained tourist-friendly. Admission to the main sanctuary is $1 (USD). Photography is allowed, although they do ask that you use sound judgment when Mass or other ceremonies are being performed. The chapel used for adoration of the Blessed Sacrament, however, remains off limits for tourism and photography as it is considered a very sacred space.

Spectacular views out over Quito

For those wanting to see more of the basilica, or to get an incredible view of the city of Quito, leave the church and turn to your right. Go to the next corner, turn right, and do a short climb up the steep street to the gates of the plaza. To your left is a series of shops including the ticket office. Here you will pay another $2 (half that if you’re Ecuadorian) to be able to access the stairs leading up the bell tower. There is an elevator as well. Make sure to wear good shoes if you plan on climbing up into the higher points of the bell tower as the metal ladders are difficult to handle with only sandals.

On the 2nd level of the tower you will get a bird’s eye view of the main chapel as well as the opportunity to see one of the huge stained glass windows up close and personally. The 3rd level affords a walkway over the stone roof of the chapel to the towers. If you took the elevator to get here, keep in mind you didn’t escape all climbing. You still have a narrow, circular staircase, and then a few ladders if you want to access the highest point. When climbing just remember you are at high altitude, so take a slower pace to accommodate the lack of oxygen.

Behind the clock in the bell tower

While walking around the outside of the basilica pay close attention to the “gargoyles” which are uniquely Andean. You will see condors, tortoises, etc., in place of the traditional Gothic fierce demons.

If you’ve managed to work up an appetite during your visit, you will find a café on the 2nd level which serves typical Ecuadoran fare at an extremely reasonable price. Or you can wait until you’re back in the plaza where there are various food vendors.

Interior of main basilica

The views are amazing, the basilica is impressive, and it has such a peaceful feel to it that no visit to Quito would be complete without also seeing the Basilica del Voto Nacional.

Family Fun in Flores, Guatemala

Mon, 26 Mar 2012 16:30:00 +1300

Brought the kids along on your trip to Guatemala? Hanging around the small island town of Flores before you head out to the Mayan ruins of Tikal? You’re in a great place!

Enjoying a hike at the zoo

If you’re on Flores, you can’t help but notice you’re in the middle of a HUGE lake. Want to keep your children occupied for hours, or just want to cool off? Jump right in! Despite the greenish tint the lake is actually quite clean. It’s cool enough to be refreshing but not cold enough to give you palpitations when you first jump in. You can jump off, or step down, any of the docks along the walkways. They’re great places for sunbathing as well. Every day you’ll find plenty of local kids and adults enjoying the waters of Lake Peten as well, so it’s a great place to mingle with locals and visitors alike.

Another great family activity is taking one of the lanchas (motor-powered canoes) to the Petencito Zoo, which is located on another small island on the lake. The fare for the boat ride is usually around 20 USD total, and the boat can take up to 8 people. This price is roundtrip. Your boat pilot will wait at the zoo for you. For a little extra they’ll also take you on a tour around the lake and include stops to a beautiful sandy beach, to the watchtower providing views over the entire lake, etc.

Holding hands with a spider monkey

While the zoo is small, it affords some very close encounters with animals, including amazing experiences with spider monkeys. As you stand near their enclosure, they will put their hands and tails through the fence. You and your kids can actually stand there holding hands with the monkeys. It’s incredible! Admission to the zoo is very reasonable at around 3 USD per person, and kids often get a discount. There are a couple of places selling snacks and drinks, but you’ll probably want to bring your own. Make sure to wear insect repellant, as well. The island is heavily forested and is perfect for mosquitoes. Wear good shoes or hiking sandals, too, since you can take some nice hikes around the island.

Wild pigs taking a nap

When back on Flores, walk up any street heading toward the church. At the top is a park where kids play basketball and football. This is also one of the areas that has the cheapest food. You can get a huge combo plate, including drink, for about $2. They typically serve a lot of kid favorites like burritos and tostadas, and mom and dad can grab a cold beer if they’d like. Next head to any of the Sarita shops and enjoy some tasty ice cream. If you haven’t eaten too much at the plaza, for about $2 you can get a 3-scoop sundae called La Bomba.

Flores - well worth exploring

When planning your stay in Flores, make sure you give yourself some extra time there. It’s a town with a lot of hidden charm.

Cabo San-Lucas, Mexico: Where Varied Flavors & Spices Come at a Good Price

Wed, 07 Mar 2012 10:00:00 +1300

Cabo San Lucas has come a long way from once being the base for pirates to hideout while waiting to highjack large Spanish vessels. It is no longer referred to as the small fishing village where marlin is caught by the dozen. Instead, the tropical getaway has evolved into pristine beaches with five-star luxury resorts lining the white sandy shores. It is a meca for tourism!

However, the alluring charm of Mexico, including small thatched grass-roof huts spotting the city and brightly colored azulejos decorating the walls of restaurants, is still present in the downtown area of Cabo. I should also mention the food was delicious; handmade tortillas, freshly prepared guacamole, spicy salsa and homemade tamales are just a few of the amazing foods listed on chalkboards and menus at restaurants. So we took it upon ourselves to explore the Mexican cuisine and since we tend to stick to a budget when traveling, here are five budget friendly places to grab an authentic bite to eat and an ice-cold cerveza!

Tiki Bar

Buclet of Corona - Tiki Bar

While this little hut has somewhat of a Hawaiian feel, it is truly Mexican. It is located along the Marina facing the many fishing boats and multi-million dollar yachts docked throughout. The atmosphere is quaint with about 15 high tables and stools positions under a thatched grass-roof hut. Serving up the freshest ceviche and cheapest buckets of frosty beers, Tiki Bar can be labeled as one of the best places we stumbled upon.

Price Range: $5-$15
Special: Bucket O’ Beer $10
Location: On the Marina

Mango Cantina

Frozen Drinks and Mexican hospitality – what more could you ask for! All the seating for the restaurant is on an outside terrace and each table gives a clear view of the beautiful sunsets in Cabo. With fresh salsa made to order at your table, you decide the level of heat; spicy, mild, smoky or sweet. Mango Cantina serves up the tastiest traditional Mexican soup with a side of tortilla chips along with a variety of quesadilla to fill the void. Or bring in your fresh catch of the day and they will cook it to perfection for you.

Price Range: $8-$20
Specials: 2 for 1 beers and margaritas
Location: on the Marina in front of Puerto Paraiso Mall

Ole Ole Tapas Restaurant and Bar

Fish tacos at Ole Ole

Hooray for Mexican food! This place is bursting at the seam with authentic dishes and with a large barbeque grill outside the restaurant, it smells as good as it tastes. Serving a variety of fajitas, Mexican brochettes (chicken, beef, or shrimp or all three brought to the table in a warm stone bowl), different tacos and a delicious queso fundido appetizer, Ole Ole is filled with spice and flavor. It also has a wide variety of spirits so any alcoholic drink you crave can be made. This was a great place to people watch and take in the real Mexican culture.

Price Range: $8-$41 (shared entrees)

Special: Three tacos and a beer $10
Location: On the Marina at Plaza Bonita Mall

El Pescador

Oysters at El Pescado

This establishment is an original landmark and still frequented by many of the locals. But above its heritage, the seafood is second to none! It is the freshest, cheapest and tastiest seafood I think I have ever had. El Pescador specializes in raw oysters and peel-and-eat shrimp, but order any fresh piece of fish fried or grilled and you will not be disappointed. With the seaweed still hanging from oyster shells, they are a daily catch at this restaurant. And the complimentary tortilla chips served with guacamole and a creamy clam dip are a real treat. This is a true food hot spot; good for the body and even better for the wallet.

Price Range: $5-$10
Specials: A dozen oysters
Location: Zaragoza y Ninos Heroes in downtown

The Crazy Lobster

Unlike many other restaurants, lobster comes at a fair price at The Crazy Lobster. Tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas and combo dishes stuffed with fresh lobster are just a few things to choose from on the menu. And Mexican flan for dessert makes this a real authentic food experience. With a variety of tequila behind the bar, pick one to your liking and sip on a shot while eating these flavorful dishes. The Crazy Lobster doesn’t include “crazy” in its name for no reason; with dancing servers, it is a happy place to clap your hands and join in the fun.

Price Range: $6-$17
Specials: 2 for 1 drinks and discounted tequila shots
Location: Hidalgo Street (Restaurant Row) just a half block from Plaza Tesoro in downtown

Riomaggiore, Italy

Thu, 01 Mar 2012 12:00:00 +1300

It was just a little over six months ago when I was planning a trip through Italy when a friend recommended I make a pit stop in Cinque Terre. “Cinque what,” was all I remember thinking to myself. But I quickly added it to our itinerary after seeing just one picture of the beautiful sea and was even more awe struck when I landed in one of the five villages along the Mediterranean Coast.

Falling in love with the dramatic coastline and perching myself atop cliffs overlooking the water, Riomaggiore, the first of the five villages, won my heart. I found myself among a magical traveler’s haven in which I told myself, “This is the place I will return year after year after year.”

Quaint, breathtaking and deeply authentic, Riomaggiore is made up of two sections, which was once divided by a river, and therefore giving it its name; major river. The way of life was whimsical, the people I met had strong personalities and the climate was something of perfection.
Pastel homes built on mountains overlooked the turquoise sea. Residents hung outside their windows and listened to the water crash against the rocks. Families packed bags and laid towels across the rocky beach just to catch some rays, while kids jumped off high cliffs diving into the warm sea. Many locals looked forward to this season, when tourists flocked the land and help them keep their traditions alive serving fresh produce, cheeses, cured meats, piping hot wood grilled pizzas and delicious homemade pastas from tiny store fronts.

Then in October, torrential rain and high winds brought flash floods burying the villages’ streets with mud and uprooting family businesses, which once thrived off of the tourism and traditions that were once in place. The Huffington Post said that devastation emotionally crippled the people of Cinque Terre as they watched the villages they feverishly built up get knocked to the ground. And now, what were once five villages is down to three.

While the towns of Riomaggiore, Manarola and Corniglia managed to get through the storm with little damage because of their high elevation, Vernazza and Monterosso were said to be completely wiped out. Rivers of mud covered the village roads while cars were piled on top of each other making it almost unrecognizable from the hundreds of pictures I scoured through over the Internet.

A person that instantly came to mind after hearing about the Cinque Terre devastation was Simone, the first person I met as I stepped off the train in Riomaggiore. He was accommodating enough to meet us at the train station, reached out his hand to take my bag and showed us to the apartment we were renting. Simone’s friendliness played through my mind and I remembered the eagerness he had for us to become acquainted with his village by excitedly pointing out restaurants and directing us to his favorite little Italian market. It felt like he was my long lost friend and now I was worried about his family, his well-being and his future.

However, it is times like these when our travel community needs to come together and help the people of the land survive after such a life-altering natural disaster. In all of our upcoming travel plans, you and I must keep the five villages of Cinque Terre in our travel plans because we are the life line for this charismatic region. While they seek out local government help, tourism is the answer to help build the region’s future economy. We are the people that can bring hope back into the minds and renew their strength.

No matter the magnitude of this natural devastation, the charm and magic will forever be present, it might just take some time to dig through and find again. So let’s rally around Italy and the residents of the villages and show the world how they too can carry on.

For more information on the apartment in Riomaggiore;
Eos 2
Via del Santuario 216b
Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre, Italy

phone: +39 320 6960259 or email

5 of the Best Open-Air Street Markets

Fri, 24 Feb 2012 10:00:00 +1300

Open-air street markets are my 'go to' for just about anything homemade, homegrown or handmade. So when I come across such places in different countries, I am overjoyed so much so that I dedicate sometimes a whole day walking up and down every aisle making sure not to miss a thing. I run around looking for fresh food samples and always try the most intriguing looking or smelling stuff native to the area. On top of all my sampling, I try to learn about these foods and take some of the stuff I will never ever be able to get again at home unless I pay an arm and a leg, which is far from satisfying. With bags filled to the brim hanging from each arm, I walk away fulfilled and proud! So here are five large markets that come highly recommended by me.

Saturday Salcedo Market in the Makati City, Philippines

Grilled milk fish, Phillipines

Filled with over 100 vendors located in the Makati Business district, this market is filled with everything you could ever want; seasonal produce, grilled fish, fresh-squeezed juices, prepared meals along with exotic plants and flowers. I couldn’t help but walk in circles taking in all the smells and sampling, sampling, sampling! After over two hours, I left with a whole grilled milk fish, prepared garlic sticky rice that was to die for, two bottles of freshly squeezed juices, many different types of fruits and a sticky cheese bun. The market is open every Saturday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. and is a traveler’s haven since we all like to EAT!

Location: Tordesillas Street in Salcedo Village, Makati, Philippines

Rialto Market in Venice, Italy

Peppers hang from vendor stalls while large mounds of dried tomatoes lay on tables; welcome to Italy! Rialto Market is located along Grand Canal and is said to be the major source of trade for the Venetians. And if this is where the locals are shopping on a daily basis, it must be the freshest stuff on earth hence the amazingly fresh food I ate while in Venice! The market is the busiest by mid afternoon and throughout the summer months when it’s excruciatingly hot, but it is totally worth the sweat and crowds.

Location: Between Campo San Giacomo and Campo della Pescheria in San Polo, Venice, Italy

Mercat de la Boqueria in Barcelona, Spain

An abundance of produce in Barcelona

This market is the greatest, the best thing ever! Located in Las Ramblas, the market can be quite deceiving from the outside. But as soon as you enter, its circumference is quite overwhelming to both the eyes and the senses. Aisles and aisles of fresh produce and large selections of seafood make this market a fun maze to eventually find your way out of. I was beyond excited to be among such deliciousness and from a friend’s recommendation, I walked away with fresh-squeezed mango juice in one hand and jars of olives in the other. The vibrant market is open Monday through Saturday from 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. My experience left me wanting more; I tell you I could live in that market.

Location: Plaza de la Boqueria, Las Ramblas, Barcelona, Spain

Pike Place in Seattle, Washington, USA

For a lot of American’s, grocery shopping centers around humongous chain stores, but Pike Place in Seattle brings back the mom-and-pop-shop feeling some of us grew up with. The public market is known for fish tossing, seasonal produce and many handmade crafts. It is also filled with many restaurants and bars, which is the reason Pike Place is the 'go to' place in Seattle. The market opens at 6 a.m., but the official market bell sounds at 9 a.m. and closes at 6 p.m. It tends to get busy fast so if you want to avoid the crowds, head to the market in the morning hours and during the off season. But no matter the time or season, Pike Place Public Market speaks volume!

Location: Between Pike and Pine streets at First Ave, Seattle, WA

Noordermarkt in Amsterdam, Netherlands

Go there hungry and you will walk away full! Cheeses, cakes, fruits and breads are just a few of the delicacies that line the market. Located in the Jordaan quarter, this market is an easy trip from just about anywhere in Amsterdam. Noordermarkt sells food on one side and vintage clothing and handmade jewelry on the other. On Mondays a unique antique and collectables section draws followers from all over. With so much to see, this market is definitely worth your time any Saturday or Monday open from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Location: 1015 MV, Amsterdam, the Netherlands

Jesuit Ruins, Paraguay

Tue, 21 Feb 2012 11:00:00 +1300

Encarnación, Paraguay is most well-known for the Jesuit ruins located about 30km out of town. We'd received a glowing review of them from the clerk at the information office in Ciudad del Este, where we had entered the country, and had decided to see them for ourselves.

The bus from Ciudad del Este was straightforward: five hours, no air-conditioning, with lots of stops to pick up passengers and food vendors. No need to disembark to buy your snack, people selling chewing gum, bread, drinks and meat-on-sticks got on frequently to sell their wares.

We arrived in scorching heat and looked around for a tourist office. None was to be seen so we took the recommendation of a ticket vendor and checked in at a small family-run hotel across the road. The proprietor gave us a map of the city and explained how to get to the ruins, drawing another map on the back of the paper: "Take a bus to Trinidad, it's about 30km. Then take another bus from the crossroads. They don't run very often so you might have to wait. One of the ruins is at the end of the line. Then catch that same bus back, walk for a kilometre along here and here (indicating his map) and you'll be at the other one." It sounded complicated. Actually, it wasn't.

Part of the complicated 'getting there' process

Well, our original plans were scuppered by the thunderstorm that hit the city the next day (a Saturday) and since Paraguay seems to shut on Sundays we decided to wait until Monday to head out to the ruins.

Catching the first bus was easy; we asked around for "Trinidad?" and there was one waiting for us. A fellow passenger indicated where we should get off about 45 minutes later, and we saw another bus waiting for us at the intersection our hotel manager had drawn on his map. It was just starting to leave as we got to the intersection, but a bit of running and handwaving achieved its aim and we found seats at the back as it trundled off along the dirt road.

The ruins of Jesús really were the end of the road, and we were the only passengers left on the bus to disembark there. The driver warned us that we had either half an hour or a long wait: after the bus at 11am, there wouldn't be another until 1pm. We thanked him and headed towards the ticket office.

Impressive ruins

A young woman greeted us outside the gates, asking if we had our tickets. We didn't, so she walked the long way around the back of the building to let herself into the office so she could sell us some. The 25,000 guaraní ticket allows entrance to the three Jesuit ruins in the vicinity of Encarnación; we'd decided to just visit two, since the third was a good 40km out the other side of the city and we had no idea how to get there.

Construction on the church at Jesus de Tavarangüe began in about 1756, and it would have been the largest in the region had it been finished. As it was, the ruling Spanish saw the Jesuits as a threat, as they were rapidly growing in number and amassing wealth, and the Jesuits were expelled in 1767; leaving behind the ruins of their 30 principal missions, and abandoning the native groups they had been educating. Many of these people returned to their old ways in the forest, and today the Paraguayan government is trying to repeat the work the Jesuits started 300 years ago.

The church at Jesús, having never been finished, is in a similar state today as it was when it was abandoned. The walls stand straight and tall, central pillars stretching skywards. The grass that carpets the church is bright and green; but it's easy to imagine how dark the inside of the building would have been if the roof had been added: the windows are high and small, and wouldn't have let in much light.

We wandered quickly around the other buildings, including the workshops and the natives' houses, before setting off at a quick jog for the entrance. We would have liked more time, but two hours more seemed a little excessive. The bus arrived on time and waited for Craig to come out of the toilet before taking off, ferrying us back to the intersection where we had got on it earlier in the day.

From there, we crossed the road and followed the signs to Trinidad, the second of our ruins. Unlike Jesús, which was all-but-abandoned, Trinidad had several dozen visitors; mostly the members of a school group, who disgorged themselves from two large coaches.

A busier site

The complex at Trinidad was used for some 60 years before the expulsion of the Jesuits, and was larger in size and scope than Jesús. It was clear that more visitors came here than to its smaller neighbour: the ticket office was staffed by two people, and several handcraft stalls lined the way from the office to the main entrance.

Like Jesús, the buildings at Trinidad are roofless: this time, as the result of a large storm a hundred or so years ago which left the complex in ruins. The bell tower still stands though, and thanks to a restoration effort, can be climbed. The crypt under the church can also be visited; thankfully, it's empty.

We explored the ruins for an hour or so before heading out to the nearby restaurant for an expensive lunch. On the way, we were stopped by a tour guide, who offered (for a small extra charge) to take us to the quarry where the Jesuits had obtained the rock for the construction of the mission. Over lunch, we decided that this could be a good idea, and she led us the kilometre or so to the quarry, where we paid and received another ticket to go with our other one. Perla (the guide) explained not only how the Jesuits had quarried and transported the rock, but some of the history of the Jesuits themselves and the missions. We'd chosen not to have a guide at the previous two stops, so it was great to learn a bit more about the sites we had seen. From the top of the hill behind the quarry we could see the ruins of Trinidad 800 metres away: not far, but quite far for a fireman's chain passing blocks from person to person, which is how the stones were moved from one place to the other.

Perla left us to have a look around the quarry by ourselves, but we met her again by the entrance, drinking tereré (cold mate tea) with a colleague. They invited us to join them, and never ones to pass up a cultural experience (and drinking tereré is THE Paraguayan cultural experience), we said yes and rested in the shade with them for a few minutes before heading off to wait for our bus back to Encarnación, which wasn't nearly as accommodatingly quick in arriving as the others we had taken.

All in all, getting to the Jesuit ruins was a long process that involved a fair bit of sitting on buses and waiting around, but it certainly wasn't complicated. Though I was glad I didn't have to do it in the rain.

Buying a Suit in Phuket,Thailand

Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:00:00 +1300

Phuket is well and truly a destination for the shopping opportunist, as well as the beach-loving tourist. There seem to be equal numbers of shops selling eyeglasses, dental and cosmetic treatments, as there are those selling suits in Phuket. It's hard to resist buying something you might otherwise have never considered when faced with the ubiquity of all of the above the shops. Having just returned from Phuket after buying two made-to-order suits and two fitted shirts (not to mention two pairs of eyeglasses), here is some beginner’s guide advice that would apply to buying a suit anywhere overseas.

Kata Beach, Phuket

If you think you could resist buying a suit, perhaps consider how price creates the demand. Just like the budget airlines who have created international travellers out of a populace who might have stayed in a caravan park a few years ago, so too travellers wanting to buy suits. The tailors in Phuket know they will generally not be undercut on price compared to what is available in most travellers’ home country. A fitted, made-to-order suit in Phuket with a 80/20 wool/cashmere blend material costs THB9750/AUD300/USD309 depending on the store you visit. A fitted made-to-order shirt will cost THB1250/AUD38/USD39. You'll be able to get much cheaper than those prices if you reduce the quality of the materials, to approximately AUD190 for a suit.

The choice is daunting, so know what you want before you embark on the process!

How to make buying a suit overseas easier:
•   Do your research in your home town into prices and differences of cut and material quality.
•   Know what style you want before you arrive at the suit shop ie. Lapel type, length, number of buttons.
•   Know what material you want. This includes any pattern on the material as well as what the material is made of ie. Pinstripe, charcoal/black/navy; polyester/wool mix or wool/cashmere mix.
•   Get a recommendation or look online for other travellers experiences. My suits were purchased at Niphon’s Rich Collection, Kata Beach, Phuket.

Armed with this information you are able to easily explain to any tailor what you want. You need to control the process by being very clear about you want before you enter the shop. You will therefore get what you want. Otherwise you may become confused and unnecessarily stressed looking at pictures of suits in the shop and deciding on the spot, which is never easy.

Checks or pinstripes?

The only variables will be the tailor's skill at measuring you (but this is what they do every day) and the actual work of the machinist putting the suit together. It's not too hard to see other work by them before deciding to commit to being measured up. What's also true of tailors' the world over is they trade off their reputation. They can't afford to create shoddy work if they are in interested in being in business for the long term. It might therefore be of interest to ask how long they have been in business or see their order book (many will show you to prove their credibility in any case).

Beautiful Kata Beach

The after-sales of customers requesting further suits or shirts made based off their measurements is an important revenue stream for most shops. Once measured, it’s easy to save in the future by ordering more shirts, for example. You will effectively be buying – and saving – direct from the manufacturer forever after for as many clothes as you need made. That will make your holiday time spent in a suit shop more than money well spent.

Fado in Lisbon

Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:30:00 +1300

I love Portugal! Let me get that out of the way first and foremost. It is the most amazing country I have visited yet. Filled with narrow streets, breathtaking views, ancient buildings and simple food done right, it provided me with a memorable experience.

When I first arrived in Portugal, I had little ambition. The last thing my body was ready for was more exploration after getting up in the wee hours of the morning to board a flight out of Barcelona. But, like always, I pushed myself. I jumped on the next train to downtown Lisbon and stepped foot in, what felt like, the Roaring Twenties with the hustle and bustle of people passing by and trams clanking up street tracks. There were gentlemen dressed in suits and top hats, detailed architecture lined the streets and crowded cafés were the set of many conversations involving coffee and cigarettes. While the rest of the world had fast forwarded to the 2000s, the 1920s still somewhat existed in Lisbon today.

View from the top of Lisbon's oldest district: Alfama

After climbing one of seven hills embodying Lisbon, I stumbled upon the narrow passageways to Alfama –the oldest district in Lisbon– with the medieval castle of Sao Jorge at its highest point and the Tejo River at its ending point. This area remains truly authentic with Arab and Roman influences still visible throughout the streets. Tiny low-level rooms in faded buildings were filled with men conversing over drinks while women living above hung out windows collecting the day’s laundry from the clothesline. Few cars roamed the neighborhood while children happily kicked a football in the empty streets.

In the middle of my wandering through the Alfama district, I spotted a small sign above a door swinging in the breeze bearing the letters f-a-d-o. A traditional Portuguese genre of music, fado dates back to the 1820s and is said to consist of mournful tunes and lyrics depicting the effects of a loss on ones life, which comes together under a particular musical structure.

Arriving in Portugal without an agenda or itinerary to follow, the only thing on my to-do-list after reading numerous travel guide books and talking to my fellow travel pals was to enjoy a night set to fado.

Fado singer in full-swing

I walked over to the simple yet eye catching sign and was immediately greeted by a short, skinny gray-haired man, who turned out to be one of the fado singers for that evening’s performance. He was intriguing, exciting and he instantly won my heart from the passion he exerted for his heritage; I looked no further and started to make my way into the restaurant. As I ducked, not to hit my head on the low ceilings, I side stepped down the narrow stairs and entered a teeny tiny room filled with no more than 10 tables positioned somewhat on top of each other; lets just say there would be little to no personal space available to me for the rest of the night. Instead, tonight would be an intimate experience over fado.

With a bottle of red wine in front of me and a dish of green olives at my fingertips, the tables filled up quickly and then a cord was struck by the guitarist situated in the corner of the room. Grabbing our attention, a young woman began to sing. The notes were passionate, her lyrics were emotional and the beat was rhythmic. The music continued for nearly a half an hour as our ears focused on the story she bared before us.

A delicious fish meal with potato salad

Dinner was served during a quick intermission and more wine was drunk. I happily enjoyed a whole fish grilled to perfection with a salty, black pepper and lemon covering. And to top it off, a side of homemade potato salad with quartered tomatoes and black olives stared me in the face. Something I would never order if my life depended on it, this potato salad gave me a new appreciation for potatoes. And three hours later, the beautiful melodic music continued to fill the room. It was therapeutic and brought to me a new perspective on life.

I left the performance with a true authentic Portuguese experience and a complete love for the music of the old country. An evening set to music equals a night I will never forget.

A Walk on the Wild Side: Chitwan National Park Nepal

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 10:30:00 +1300

Backtracking along the Pokhara Kathmandu road is the only sensible way to head down to the Chitwan National Park save taking a plane and even that is problematic. Getting aboard a half decent bus is the first priority, most guesthouses will sort that out for you and take the strain out of the chaos at the bus park. Aside from Greenline there are no “luxury” buses heading this way so nearly everyone is in the same boat, or rather bus. I recommend a seat by the window in the middle of the bus, the front can get busy and in the back you will feel every pothole… and there are many!

The road climbs slowly out of Pokhara and begins its journey eastward to the mountains, the plains disappear and the gorges commence. Rapids run to one side of the road with adventurous white water rafters braving the rocks whilst stoic bus passengers cling, white knuckled, to their armrests enjoying the magnificent views; mentally drafting their last will and testaments. Truck drivers high on meth amphetamines with cargos of aviation fuel hurtle past, small children dodge about in the road and livestock roam rampant, oblivious to it all. Pray for dry weather, solid tyres and good karma. Assuming all is well and that you have been extremely nice to your chosen deity you will have swapped the mayhem of the highway for the law of the jungle…remind me why we are doing this!

A Mexican - sorry - Nepali standoff

Chitwan National Park is a must see tourist destination in Nepal and many travellers choose it as post trek relaxation. Agents in Kathmandu and Pokhara, as well as your guesthouse, will try to sell you 3-4 day packages to the park that include most fees, transportation, all accommodation and board. This will mean a regimented itinerary with little scope to chop and change your tours. However, you can just sit back and let someone else worry about the schedule. It is also very easy to head there under your own steam, find somewhere to stay and book any particular tours that may take your fancy. This gives you added freedom at roughly the same costs depending upon your bargaining skills.

One thing I would say is that if you have been trekking Nepal in a group and enjoy that camaraderie perhaps a package is better suited. Solo travellers or independents tend to be placed on tables aside from the groups and although not treated any poorer there is definitely a division. Having said that, I enjoyed the company of several like-minded travellers who preferred to do their own thing or hook up for tours where that was agreeable.

KC's Restaurant's obligatory sunset spot

Most tourists head for Sauraha where the vast majority of the tours are based; there are other places to stay outside of the park for those who prefer to be away from that particular herd. Being a simple soul I plumbed for Sauraha and booked a room in advance getting my pickup from the bus park in a dusty field just outside of town. In Nepal I generally used review sites to judge accommodation and simply sent them an email, this worked out very well and saved many hours of plodding around with a backpack in search of digs.

I stayed at the Hotel Parkside and although not the cheapest it was clean and very friendly. My main reason for booking there was the high number of recommendations that one of their guides, Gopal, had accrued. I felt that a good guide was imperative for a short stay and not being with a group would offer me a personalised service.
After the long drive down I felt I owed it to myself to have a nice cold happy hour sunset beer and a curry so headed out to KC’s restaurant on the riverside overlooking the park. Deckchairs were laid out in the lush gardens and the place began to fill up as the sun slowly descended. The drinks and food prices were about the same as a regular café in Pokhara and the meal was excellent. I went home to my hotel contented and slept soundly.

Two tonnes of rhino

The next morning I imagined the hotel was on fire with all the banging on my door, it was my guide Gopal insisting that I get dressed and come immediately. My first wild rhino was waiting for me! The main group tours had already headed off for a jungle walk so it was just us two as we trekked about thirty minutes through the undergrowth to a clearing which the river split in two.
“Okay” Gopal said, “If I say look! Or run! It means that we are in danger and need to get away”
“What do we do exactly” I asked, looking around for a rifle or preferably a machine gun.
“Well the best thing is to climb a tree” Gopal advised.
I looked around for any likely climbable trees for a chap of my disposition and had decided that if all else fails I would trip up my guide and use him as bait! I needn’t have worried, the magnificent two ton rhino was happily content bathing in the water and ignoring us completely. It was spectacular to see that size of an animal in the wild less than a few metres away. We had about twenty minutes like that on our own before other guides turned up with elephants toting camera wielding passengers. I decided that it was better to move on as the disturbance had changed the scene and I wanted to remember it my way.

Elephant bathtime

There are possibilities to see wild deer and rhinos (hardly ever any tigers) on most tours depending upon the season; the grass can get very tall and makes spotting wildlife harder. One activity that is fun and presents less of a danger, although three and a half tons of playful elephant can hardly be described as risk free, is elephant bath time. I know that this sounds corny and exploitative but the mahouts do bathe the elephants and why not take part if the opportunity arises?

Most packages include a trip to see the elephants being washed but if you have a chance, as I did, find a private elephant for a few Rupees tip to the mahout and you can have a real splash about. It’s slightly insane to sit on an elephant getting drenched as the mahout shouts a few commands and its trunk explodes water in a huge blast all over you. A couple of taps from the stick and the next thing you know the elephant has hurled you off and continues to spray you as you lie in the water. Just who is washing whom? I paid my tip to the elephant and it was duly snaked in his trunk up to the mahout as they headed once more into the park.

Scary but fun, educational and relaxing, Chitwan is well worth the effort!

Don’t Get Left Behind: Things to know about airport departures from Manila, Philippines

Sat, 04 Feb 2012 07:00:00 +1300

When it’s time to leave a place behind, whether it’s to continue on to your next travel destination or to head back home, it can sometimes be a hassle. Your flight either leaves way too early in the morning after spending the night soaking up the last of everything that place has to offer or your suitcase can barely fit all the stuff you claim it once did. If you are like me, always running late, you have your counterpart screaming for you to hurry up because the train is leaving.

However, after being stuck in wall to wall traffic trying to get out of Manila, Philippines with my taxi driver showing no sense of urgency, I figured this would be the first time in all of my travels I would miss my flight out of Asia.

Leaving myself four hours for an international departure out of the Nino Aquino International Airport in Manila was what I considered to be ample time, but was immediately proven wrong. This airport is pure craziness and as anxiety built up inside me the entire time, I am here to share my experience and a few tips to make the next trek to and from the Philippines a bit easier.

Getting to the Airport

I threw my bags in the trunk and hopped in the backseat of the taxi waiting outside my apartment building in Makati. Allowing myself what I thought was enough time to get through the congestion of the city (I would label this city the traffic capital of the world), after an hour or so, we were finally smooth sailing a total of ten minutes before hitting another wall of traffic inside Manila. I sat at the edge of my seat, trying to peer through the traffic jam but saw no relief. My driver, not worried in the least, sat back and continued to talk to me about his three children and beautiful wife. Barely listening, panic set in after another hour and a half ticketed off the clock and the airport was still not in sight. Finally arriving curbside two and a half hours later, I realized four hours was not enough allotted time now that the majority of it was used just on the ride to the airport. Something to remember; the major cities in the Philippines are heavily congested with so sense of infrastructure no tack on an extra couple hour just to get through the traffic.

A Chaotic Entrance

We pulled up to the curb and I instantly jumped out, bags already in hand. I made my way to the entrance, which was filled with travelers packed like sardines waiting to enter. “What is this all about,” I remember asking my driver. He told me not to worry so I picked, what I thought to be, the shortest line. I noticed a traveler and their bags going through X-Ray surveillance before entering the doors to the airport. As I stood there waiting in line, I figured security check was handled at the door – brilliant – but I learned differently as my experience continued. An airport attendant approached me in line and she asked to see my passport and boarding pass...BOARDING PASS?! That is why I intended to get to the airport early to print my boarding pass because my apartment building was not equipped with a printer. She stared at me with the same face and proceeded to ask for my itinerary. I immediately realized I had left it behind and gave her a blank stare. As I looked around, everyone else seemed to be prepared except me; had I not read the small print on the entrance doors to the airport? The agent instead took out a mile long sheet of paper, found my name, checked it off and told me to move along. This was the one trip without my boarding passes in hand or my handy itinerary by my side, but at least I got through. So from now on, stash a few copies of your trip’s itinerary in different areas of your suitcase or best case scenario; find a cyber café the night before so you are prepared with your boarding pass and itinerary and any other documents needed for your departure.

Pay Your Dues

After checking in at the airline counter, I finally had my boarding pass in hand and walked down the hall to be faced with another counter labeled Departure Tax. Thinking this was some sort of immigration check point, I handed the attendant my passport, boarding pass and declaration paper only to have them pushed back at me and instead asked to pay a tax. Unaware of any fee prior to my airport arrival, I dug through my wallet and bag only to come up with 300 pesos or $10 USD, which didn't cover the departure tax. The attendant just stared at me and suggested I go back to the airline check-in counter for help, but the line was way too long. Now I was literally racing against time. As I turned away from the counter, the letters ATM were in plain site and I dashed to the bank kiosk, took out the necessary money and went back to wait in the Departure Tax Counter line once again. Since credit cards are not used as an alternative to cash in the Philippines, always carry extra cash for times like these. And make sure to check the airport website before hand to learn about any hidden fees you might encounter upon your departure.

Immigration Check

Immediately after, I join a long line of travelers as we all waited to pass through immigration. This line was as bad as, if not worse than, an amusement park line. I stood – relieved I got by the "tax collector” – and waited as more time ticked by. At this point there was nothing I could do except listen to my heart beat uncontrollably and reassure myself I wouldn’t miss my flight. While I might be stating the obvious, every country is different so I encourage everyone to have the proper documents filled out completely and properly well before reaching the attendant for a quick immigration check.

The Real Security Checkpoint

I made it through Immigration, only to be faced with another security checkpoint. I thought this was taken care of before I even entered the doors to the airport, but I guess not. As I took off my tall boots, placed my carry-on in a tray and waited to pass through the metal detector, I was actually happy to know my security was strictly protected in the Philippines. Boots back on and carry-on flung over my shoulder, I raced to my gate. When traveling to another country, I recommend that you pack light; think about shipping anything you don’t need in your possession back home before getting on your flight. Getting through security is easier and running through the airport with a light load makes a huge difference.

For Good Measure, Another Checkpoint

When I arrived at my gate, another security checkpoint stared me in the face. After my carry-on bag was inspected, my body patted down, and my passport checked, I finally made my way to the waiting area. I stood for a second and took a deep breath; I arrived at my gate with 10 minutes to spare. But next time…... Who am I kidding? This is the joy of traveling to unknown places all over the world.

Lunch in Encanacion, Paraguay

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:30:00 +1300

"We have a little of everything," the old woman said in rapid Spanish, holding my arm. "There's chicken, there's pork, there's sausages, there's even..." she paused, and I wasn't sure if it was for emphasis or to find the word. "...cow," she finished. Craig and I looked at each other. "Okay," we said.

We were in Encarnación, Paraguay, a small city in a country dwarfed by its larger neighbours Argentina and Brazil. Encarnación itself is in the south of the country, just across the river from Posadas, Argentina and its major attraction are the Unesco World Heritage-listed Jesuit ruins that lie about 30km out of town.

We had arrived the day before, sweating on an unairconditioned bus and planning to stay just two nights in the city, visiting the ruins on the day between them. However, we woke up to thunderstorms and temperatures 20 degrees lower than the day before; we stayed in bed, venturing out at about 1pm in search of lunch.

We found it across the road from our hotel, in a comedor located behind the bus station. We knew it was a comedor because large signs on the outside of the squat brick building proclaimed it to be so; and since "comedor" means "dining room" (and apparently "food court" too), we knew we were onto a good thing.

Smoke-filled, blaring loud music, but tasty food

The building was arranged around an open courtyard, and tiny kitchens occupied the walls. Huge Coca-Cola signs proclaimed the name of the establishment and what number stall they occupied. In the covered way between the kitchen and the courtyard was a forest of plastic tables and chairs, some with tablecloths that fluttered in the breeze. It was uncharacteristically cold for that time of year, but the barbecues fashioned from old metal barrels warmed the air a little. Narrow chimneys attached to the barbecues ferried the smoke above the roof of the covered way when the lid was shut. However, the lids opened towards the diners and were often left open, leaving the smoke to waft among the tables. The upside of this meant visitors could see what was on offer.

The first stall only seemed to be serving greasy chicken; the next, overcooked steak. We wound our way among the tables and turned the corner to look at the restaurants on the far side of the building. An older woman several stalls down saw us coming and gestured to us enthusiastically. Sure, she does that with everyone but it felt personal. "She wants us to eat at her restaurant," I said to Craig. "I'm sure she does," he replied dryly.

The typical bbq - Paraguayan style

After her glowing description of her wares, and more importantly, a glance inside her barbecue, we could hardly resist. We ordered a plate to share and it arrived piled high with quarter of a chicken, a large piece of pork, a sausage, and a tomato and lettuce salad. No sign of the cow, which was probably just as well. We were also given a plate of cassava, more than we could possibly eat between us; and this was just one serving. Our bottle of Coke came accompanied by mugs fashioned from old cans - mine was, appropriately, a Coke can, but Craig's used to hold beer.

The food was delicious but the experience was about more than just the food. The wind whipped coldly around our shoulders, threatening to take our paper napkins with it. Bad Spanish music blared from every stall, crackling on the speakers and clashing with the music from the stall next door. The smell of meat roasting permeated everything, wafting from the barrel barbecues with their odd chimneys. We glanced around to see that all of Doña Eli's tables were taken; we'd obviously chosen correctly. And we knew where to come for lunch tomorrow.

Fes el Bali, Morocco – Is it Worth the Hassle?

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 09:30:00 +1300

This is a very good question, and quite subjective depending upon your tolerance for hassle. Fes is probably the most aggravating city in the whole of Morocco. It seems that some of its residents are hell bent on driving everyone insane with their non-stop entreaties to buy something or be your guide. Hashish mister, Cocaine, Women, Camels…. the list goes on and on.

The dichotomy is that it is also one of the most fascinating; from the ancient tanneries to the Madrasa Bou Inania. Whether that is enough to compensate for the obvious downsides I will leave the reader to judge.
Fes is split into several sprawling areas; the one that most visitors see is the old walled city of Fes el Bali and that is where we will start our journey.

Jumping back a little, my day had begun on the morning train from Marrakech as it wound its way through a wonderful varied landscape before finally pulling into the brand new station in Fes. I have to say that the new stations in Morocco are excellent, with free Wi-Fi and clean restrooms, definitely a step up from the old days!

Amazing architecture at every turn

To get to Fes (el Bali from now on) it is easy to grab a taxi from the forecourt of the station, just don’t grab the first one who approaches you. I suggest walking away a little distance and then trying your luck. If there are two or three of you it’s the same price, so split the fare. It won’t be expensive and the distance is too far, and may be unsafe, to walk.

Aim for the main gate, the Bab Boujloud, around which are a cluster of cheap hotels and hostels, many overpriced, dark and dank but with a couple of gems. Rooms at the popular Hotel Cascade just inside the gate were cheap but frankly grotty to my mind. I found a great little hotel (the Bab Boujloud, just outside the gate) with a single room for 12 Euros including free Wi-Fi, breakfast, private bathroom, TV and AC plus a roof terrace with amazing views over the city. It all depends on your budget of course and your tolerance for wildlife!

Talking about wildlife…Once you leave the sanctuary of your room the vultures descend with obvious glee at the sight of fresh meat; tempting tourist morsels to the slaughter. Calm down, it’s not that bad. If you keep walking and totally ignore them, do not shake hands or engage in any conversation, then they will rapidly lose interest in you and latch on to another sucker. One tactic is to shout at you and complain that you are racist or some such thing. It’s just a ploy to your western guilt so “keep calm and carry on”. Once over that hurdle all that remains is to get lost!

The TV & Radio repair man

In true traveller tradition you have never visited a medina unless you really, really need to ask directions and you are totally lost. That is half the fun and leads to some interesting diversions as well as a chance to take on a conversation with a local that is not solely commercial. In Fes, even armed with a map, expect this to be the case. Do not be put off by just following your nose (the aromas range from the tempting to the poisonous) and having fun. There is an easy route that takes you in a bit of a circle, just follow the Rue Talaa Kebira down and the Zkak Rouah back. That should be simple enough.

A new set of teeth sir?

Passing along the narrow streets of the medina you will run into all sorts of craziness. I came across a dentist shop with a range of false teeth for sale, some looked rather used! Camel heads hung from butchers stalls and artisans toiled in little shops building and repairing all manner of things that were required for daily life. Donkeys and carts barged passed shoppers with cries of Balak! Look out! And you had better, they won’t stop.

At the end of the medina close to the river are the tanneries; impressive, stinking, colourful and ancient. Many leather shops will let you look for free from a terrace above; there you will get a great view of the actual work that goes on there without losing all your faculties to the stench. Mint leaves are provided to crush under your nose to hide the pungency. If you are brave, and stupid, a few dirhams dropped into a caretakers hand will get you closer to the action. Personally, I suggest fireman’s breathing apparatus as visitors have been known to become violently ill in proximity to the fumes. Having said all that, it is a must see part of Fes and a great insight to the leather industry. Take a chance as you wander back up the hill to duck down the small alleys left and right to admire the architecture, fountains and hidden treasures.

The tanneries

Another must see is the Bou Inania madersa. Although access is limited to the courtyard the architecture is splendid and a sense of calm prevails from the mayhem outside.

After a hard day fighting the touts and guides, avoiding carpet sellers and keeping your sense of smell intact you deserve a treat. My suggestion is the Café Clock, a wonderfully restored 250 year old building and courtyard with great food, superb coffee and a roof terrace that overlooks the old medina; definitely worth it, an oasis of calm in Fes el Bali.

So there you have it. It’s neither fragrant nor user friendly, it can be hot, dirty and some of its citizens rude. It can also be charming, quirky, delightful and wondrous. Above all it is a challenge, but one I know you are up to!

5 Tips For Tourists Walking in New Zealand

Wed, 18 Jan 2012 10:00:00 +1300

It was after 8pm when a curly haired American girl straggled into Iris Burn Hut on the Kepler track, a Great Walk, in Fiordland, New Zealand. Ranger Robbie had just finished his nightly information talk to the rest of the trampers in the hut. Everyone else had arrived at this hut by four o’clock in the afternoon.

Weather forecast notice

The girl was relieved but Ranger Robbie wasn’t amused. What you did was very irresponsible, he publicly expressed to the girl.
Due to her desire to camp, and tight schedule to get to the Milford Sound the following day, she was attempting to do the Kepler track in two days when most people take three to four days.

There’s nothing wrong with that ambition (some super fit folk run it in one day), however, she left the Department of Conservation office on the Te Anau lake shore at 10am. Starting the walk at this time meant she didn’t leave Luxmore Hut until two o’clock. Everyone else had left this hut by 10am.

Just past Luxmore hut a ranger had met her on the trail and saw her struggling beneath a pack nearly as large as her. He tried to dissuade her. Along the exposed ridgeline between Luxmore Hut and Iris Burn Hut the weather was quickly deteriorating. This girl would end up walking the last three hours in the dark and rain with her head lamp burning into the night. She could have easily slipped off the trail, sparking a search and rescue event.

Iris Burn hut - Kepler Track, NZ

For the rangers on this track, this will now be just another story to tell – one that at least didn’t turn out badly. Though they would probably still agree more travellers to New Zealand should get out and experience the wild places that make New Zealand so unique.

One of the best ways to do this is to start with one of the so-called Great Walks of New Zealand. These popular, resourced and marketed walking tracks give access to some of the most inspiring scenery the country has to offer. These tracks with comfortable huts, supplied cookers and resident rangers in peak season are both saviour and a lure that leads some into complacency, especially, but not exclusively, inexperienced or unprepared tourists.

Get into the wild in New Zealand – just do so prepared and within your limits.

Five Tips For Tourists Attempting A Day/Overnight/Multi-Day Walk in New Zealand:

1. Prepare to get wet.

It will probably rain, heavily. So if you don’t have a good raincoat and waterproof pack liner don’t start the walk.

2. Use a pack liner, not a pack cover.

Pack covers blow off when the wind gets above approx 80 km/h. In any exposed area you may well experience those gusts. Pack liners will also keep your kit dry, chances are a pack cover won’t.

3. 'Easy' means 'moderate'.

Getting away from it all in New Zealand

Walks rated ‘easy’ in NZ are probably ‘moderate’ in your home country. So don’t bite off more than you can chew, but safely challenge yourself all the same.

4. Start with a challenging day walk.

Start with a longer/harder day walk before you attempt an overnight walk. If you’ve not hiked before it’s best to dip your toe in the water, so to speak, before taking the plunge. You’ll at least get a sense of what a multi-day walk will be like.

5. Tell someone your plans.

Tell someone reliable where and when you are going. And most importantly when you will return. Notify that same person when you do.

Beyond the Iron Curtain II - Culture Vultures

Sun, 15 Jan 2012 10:00:00 +1300

In a previous article I documented our journey and first discovery of Prague just after the Velvet Revolution in 1989. Picture the scene: four backpackers, a few pivo’s and a hearty Czech meal. It was time to work it all off and see the sights!

Coming from a western country with high streets full of the usual chain stores and bright lights it was quite an experience to be transported to a place devoid of designer goods and the trappings of major commerce.

Heading towards the centre of town we strolled along wide boulevards crisscrossed by tram lines, and flanked by tall, quite gracious buildings; somewhat in contrast to the ramshackle area of Zizkov where we were staying. Heading past the main station we entered a small park, the only real greenery around. The stalls set in the park served beers and other stronger drinks to some rougher types occupying most of the benches, but otherwise harmless.

This clock could take an eye out.

We skirted the rest of the park and crossed over towards Wenceslas Square, where only a short while ago the Czech people had demanded and received the changes they desired. Heading further down brought us to the main old town square, a magnificent open area surrounded by churches, monuments, the famous astrological clock and so much more it was hard to take it all in.

This was the Holy Grail, not too many tourists and so much to see, we spent hours just wandering the winding streets and falling in love with the city.

Arriving at the famous Charles Bridge we were in full market mode. Every vendor there seemed to be selling whatever was left of the Red Army before they exited the country. Military hats, army watches, Fur Hats, bayonets, medals, and Kalashnikovs…okay that last one may have been made up! We rummaged around and bargained for some souvenirs to take home. I went for a big grey fur officer’s hat that was warm but on later use found that it smelled like an old squirrel once damp from the snow!

Hawkers apart, the bridge was magnificent; spanning the Vltava and leading enticingly to the Mala Strana on the other side from where Prague castle stood gloriously overlooking the city. Recessed statues and benches every few yards offered glimpses of outstanding artistry and gave strollers fantastic views of the river banks. At night the lights of the town, castle and bridge came together to show just why Prague, then and now, is considered to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.

Majestic Prague Castle

Did I mention it was cold? The wind seemed to drive straight through our clothes; however some women and many teenage girls didn’t seem to have read the weather forecast and wore very fashionable short skirts oblivious to the elements. We were wrapped up like arctic explorers and could only wonder at the thermal properties of Czech womanhood. About the only time we felt warm was when occupying a seat on a tram, the hot air blowing majestically up the heated seats. We could have spent all day just sitting on a circle line tram nice and toasty, enjoying the view.

One or two oddities distinguished themselves for different reasons: Shops and stores for the most part were pretty bland and the concept of a large supermarket as we have in the west was novel. One we found had a queue outside so we figured that it was just about to reopen but on closer inspection we could see people inside with shopping carts loading up with the usual fare. The line, it turned out, was for the cart itself. No cart no entry. Therefore with only a few carts the store had only a few shoppers at a time, the rest had to wait outside. It was probably one of the most bizarre aspects of the old system that we had come across.

The fairy-tale like Old Town Square

Another gem of a find, close to the stations and on many side streets, were the little old ladies serving out Czech street food at next to nothing, our favourites were bramborak, a type of potato pancake and the occasional fried mystery meat in a kind of batter. A couple of these with a beer and the sightseeing could resume.

We finished off our last night with a splurge dinner heading for a small hotel with a reasonable looking restaurant that we had seen during the day. It was difficult to imagine a more contrasting sight as four scruffy (we did clean up a bit) backpackers walked into the smart dining room and were seated by waiters in dinner jackets and bow ties. In truth the meal was no great shakes but we drank some nice Melnik wine and didn’t cause a fuss. The bill USD, $8.00 for all of us, was split and we headed out into the night for some more entertainment…and, of course, some more of that delicious pivo!