Flamenco, Tapas and Cerveza in Seville, Spain

When one thinks of Spain in the summer images of sun drenched beaches and sangria fuelled nights may come to mind or wild fiestas and castanet twirling flamenco dancers stomping to the rhythm of Spanish guitars. I think of tree lined boulevards, mighty cathedrals, ancient fortresses and, of course, tapas bars.

Welcome to Seville, my favourite city in Spain and labelled the frying pan of the Iberian Peninsula for very good reason. It is hot here, not your “oh my, it’s warm Doris” but “oh my god I am going to boil” type of heat. The worst heat is in the summer of course but even in the cooler winter months it can be well above the temperatures of the Costa del Sol.

The tapas bars are worth the visit to Seville alone!

Having said that, if you want to avoid the crowds of Feria and Semana Santa, the two busiest periods in Seville, May and June can be tolerable and September very pleasant. July and August is most definitely for the hardy types but can be rewarded by knock down hotel prices and reduced queuing for attractions.

With such a popular city accommodation can be problematic and booking in advance in advisable any time apart from high summer. There are more and more hostels available for the budget traveller nowadays, mostly situated in the old quarter, with a complete range for those who want a little more comfort.

I prefer to stay near to the Cathedral, it is more expensive but the atmosphere and locale are second to none. In summer a good hotel can be found for fifty Euros, the same price for two at a hostel, so it makes sense to check the online booking services like hotels.com or venere.com to pick up a bargain. Hostelbookers.com and hostelworld.com can get you sorted at a hostel and my recommendation because of its great rooftop pool is the Oasis Hostel, part of a small chain with others in Granada and Lisbon in Portugal.

Get out of the sun and into Alcazar

Most of the major sights are clustered around the Barrio Santa Cruz and the Cathedral; new works have seen a regeneration of the old town area with a new tram service and rental bike points dotted here and there to help visitors and locals alike get around. Walking is still the easy option and armed with a map and plenty of water foot padding around is going to get to you to all the narrow alleys and delightful tapas bars.

First up on the tour should be the cathedral, a magnificent edifice slap bang in the centre of the old town. Get in early to avoid the crowds and go immediately to the Giralda tower and start the climb to the top. The steps are wide and sloping and make it a steady march upwards, the tower masks the original minaret that it is based on and the reason for the slope was to allow the muezzin to ride his horse to the top!

Next up should be the Reales Alcazares de Sevilla; this old Moorish fortress is a gem with its fantastically adorned rooms and enchanting gardens and is perfect for an escape from the searing heat.

Not to be missed is the offbeat little tower, the Torre Del Oro, on the banks of the river. This tower, like the one in Lisbon, originally had a sister on the opposite bank where a chain was anchored and could be drawn up to restrict passage or exact tolls. It is worth the couple of Euros entrance for the small exhibition within and the views from the rooftop.

To truely understand the bullfight you need to experience it

Seville is second only to Madrid for bullfighting and the Feria marks the start of the season. For those of you who feel they cannot tolerate an actual bullfight the Plaza de Toros Maestranza have guided tours to give you an understanding of the pageantry. Hemmingway lovers however should get tickets early and immerse themselves in the spectacle and excitement that this most traditional of arenas offers.

The streets become thronged with people, television cameras and celebrities and it seems, at first, not unlike a football match at home; seated in the crowd with a cold beer in hand the sounds of the band playing the Pasa Doble the tension building until finally the matadors and his compatriots enter the ring to tremendous applause. After that it becomes a bloody affair with a predictable end for the bull and the support or derision from the spectators depending upon the bravery and skill of the matador.

For a different type of excitement, one for the palate, Seville offers a splendid array of tapas bars and traditional restaurants. I prefer to graze on tapas, rioja and cerveza and the area of choice is around the cathedral. Making your way down the Calle Mateos Gago, your first stop should be the Bodega Santa Cruz La Columnas. This place serves excellent tapas and writes your tab in chalk on the bar, toss a tip into the jar above the serving hatch and receive a round of applause from the regulars if you make it and humiliation if you miss!

The power of the Flamenco moved us all

More tapas bars line the street but we are in search of something a little different. Walk further down and follow the road to the right until you come to Meson de Moro, take this to the end and turn left down Calle Ximenez de Enciso. Here you will find the Casa de la Memoria de Al Ándalus, my choice for Flamenco in Seville. Set in the patio of a small villa only a limited number of tickets are sold for the two shows. The audience is seated close to the action; the whispered nuances and tension of the performance are electrifying and after an hour of dance and song it is time to burst, energised, into the small tapas bar next door for a nice cold beer….or two…or three.